How do you choose the right classic car body shop?
Article by: Joe Babiasz
One of the most important aspects of restoring a collector car is choosing the right body shop to do the body and paint work. Many of you have walked the cruise nights, gone to shows and have seen some very nice and some not so nice paint jobs. One must wonder how did the owner decide on a particular body shop? Was their decision based on price, quality or timeframe? While these aspects play an important part in deciding who will do the work on your car, it is critical that you first decide on the amount you want to spend, then do your homework when choosing the right shop. I hear so many horror stories from cruisers who have been burned by body shops.
Last year a friend of mine delivered his 1972 Cutlass convertible to a shop for body and paint work. He was told that it would take about 3 months to complete. He got his car back 11 months later with less than desirable results. Why? No contract! Just a handshake and a short written estimate along with a smooth talking body shop owner.
Lets take a look at some ways to make sure the vehicle owner is protected when getting the work done. The most important part is choosing the right shop but how do you find a body shop to do your restoration? I don’t recommend going to a shop that specializes in just collision repair. While they might be able to do restoration work, they are probably not the right guys to take on a 40-year-old restoration. I do recommend trying to find a shop that specializes in collector car restoration work. If you know of such a shop, talk to the owner and ask for references from the shop. Then contact those references.
Another way to find a reputable body shop is to attend the local car shows and talk to the owners of cars that you think have the type of paint job you are looking for. If the owner is happy with their body shop they will be glad to talk about the experience and recommend the shop that did their work. Don’t be afraid to ask the approximate price for the body and paint work. I find most people who are happy with the body shop will gladly discuss the specifics with you. Talk to several people, make a list of the shops and plan to visit them.
Stop by the shops that have been recommended, talk to the owner and look at the current projects they are working on. If you like what you see, discuss the approximate pricing structure. Much depends on what exactly you want the body shop to do and of course the condition of your car. But the key to protecting yourself against having problems is to write a contract. The contract will not only protect you but also the body shop. Good body shop owners understand this. If the owner isn’t willing to sign a contract, I would suggest that you walk away. If you are comfortable with the shop, bring the car in for a thorough “walk around” prior to signing a contract.
But what do you put in a contract? Everything! If you want the body shop to paint the car with all trim and panels on and all weatherstrips left on, than just put it in the contract and you will know what you will be getting with no surprises. If you want more, then be very detailed in the contract. I suggest the following information to be included in the contract.
- Put in writing everything that is in need of repair.
- Will the hood/doors/decklid be removed for paint?
- Agree on what trim will be removed and replaced for body and paint work.
- If new panels are to be installed, will new panels be “lap welded” or ‘butt-welded”?
- Will all panels look “factory” correct after restoration including factory seams?
- Agree on the panels that will be replaced vs. the panels that are to be repaired.
- Agree on the method of repair of panels. An example is a typical early mustang lower door where there is minor rust in the lower front and rear corner. Will the body shop grind the rust area and apply “bondo” (I hope not) or will they cut the metal out and weld in a new patch panel? (I hope so). Sure, it costs more but it will last much longer.
- Agree on the paint prep. Will the car be media blasted or sanded?
- Agree on the manufacture of the primer and paint that will be used.
- Agree on if the car will have single stage or base coat/clear coat paint.
- Agree if the body shop will “color sand” and wheel out the car prior to putting the trim back on the car or will they leave that up to you.
- Agree on an approximate timeframe for completion. Many body shops have a problem with this but you need to have some type of timeframe. Understand that there are times the body shop runs into unknown problems but they should be calling you when they find any. They should also call you if there are any changes to the contract price. If the longest timeframe is not met within reason, the body shop should refund some money.
- Agree on the times that you want to be contacted so that you can review the progress on the car, I would recommend after disassembly, after body work has been finished but prior to primer, prior to and after paint. Make sure the body shop will allow you to stop in unannounced to see progress on the car.
- Buy a disposable camera and ask the body shop to take pictures while doing the work. This is very important when you sell the car.
- Agree on if there will be any guarantee about the body and paintwork and rust repair.
- Agree on a price and payment schedule. NEVER pay in full up front.
Every car is different but the more specifics you put in the contract the better chance you have to in getting the car back the way you want it, when you want it and at a price that you agreed to. And if you like the work that was done, make sure you tell your friends. Good body shops are hard to find.



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